Review

Worship Street
Whistling Shop
Cream Gin

Whistling Shop (Fluid Movement & Master of Malt), Worship Street, Shoreditch, London, UK.

Whistling Shop and Fluid Movement.

In Victorian times, at the height of the Gin craze, Gin Palaces were found throughout the city. Gin was held and served from barrels at these places; the spirit was often rough and ready and there were several approaches to soften and smooth the alcohol. One was to sweeten it and today many are familiar with this category of Gin: Old Tom. The other method, almost unknown of today, was to add sugar and cream (although this methodology is debated) and gave rise to the term Cream Gin.

The Whistling Shop on Worship Street in London, UK is an unusual and unique Victorian style Gin Palace (bar). The bar’s signature drink is the Black Cat’s Martini, using 10 parts Cream Gin and 1 part dry Vermouth garnished with a radish. This bar, and several others, is the combined work of mixologists Thomas Aske, Bryan Pietersen, Tristan Stephenson and Matt Whiley. This collaboration, collectively known as Fluid Movement, have partnered with the UK liquor merchant Master of Malt to produce this Cream Gin. Realizing this old type of Cream Gin probably wouldn’t prove too successful today (although one wonders, given the success of Bailey’s Irish Cream) they undertook to use modern methods to produce their own version of this Gin. The finalized commercial offering for purchase was produced in late 2012.

The Victorian post distillation method of infusing the cream is updated; the cream is steeped in a Gin base spirit before being cold distilled under vacuum. The resultant spirit is clear and yet retains many of the characteristics of the cream.

Made in small batches in the Whistling Shop laboratory, it is presented in a tall clear cylindrical bottle with a cream-colored label and brown lettering.

London Dry Gin.

43.8% (88 Proof).

$$$$$$ - $$$$$$$. Not available in the USA, try Master of Malt in the UK but prepare to pay an additional 50% for shipping.

Botanicals include: coriander, cream, juniper berries, lemon peel, orange peel and orris root.

Named after the bar and its address where this Gin originated, and the key botanical ingredient used.

On the nose is vanilla like cream, pine (juniper) and citrus (orange). On the palate there is a lactic creamy milk and light oily mouth feel (not unexpected given the cream constitutes 7% of the overall Gin), clear juniper and peppery spice bite, with vanilla and citrus notes. The close is sweetly soft and creamy with vanilla and citrus. 

This is a truly different; whilst the traditional juniper and citrus of a London Dry is here, we’re tempted to suggest this is a whole new category of Gin. Taken neat the normal Gin taste profile is prevalent with just a hint of cream. However, new category or not this excels in a Martini and the very dry version by The Whistling Shop Bar is spot on the money. It also does well in a Gin & Tonic as a refreshing citrus drink (but we think this is a waste - if you’re looking for a long drink try using soda water instead).

It seems that when mixed with other liquids the cream becomes more pronounced, so whilst it is suitable for Gin based mixed cocktails one has to choose carefully. With much regret we have only sampled a small amount, so please tell us about any of your favorites. Several that deserve mention are the Negroni, and mixing this Gin with Cola (recommended by The Whistling Shop). Whilst Gin and Cola is uncommon, although not in all countries, it is well worth trying.

Vodka has been put through the wrangle with how many different and unusual flavors that have been promulgated. There is a concern in certain circles that Gin may end up being “diluted” with a proliferation of flavoring. It is easy to see people may view this Gin in that light. However, we can honestly say this is not the case with this one, the cream adds to the traditional Gin taste, rather than subtracts. We recommend it wholeheartedly, you’ll feel like the cat that’s got the cream!

Bronze & Silver Medals, International Spirits Challenge, 2013.